First of all, I gotta say how amazing it is to have a body that is working again. The sickness is gone, the energy is back and the psyche is higher than ever before. And best of all – no injuries to take into consideration.
Second of all, I sent my first 8A boulder a few weeks ago – Lynx in Vingsand. A boulder I have looked at many times and tried a few, last time this past fall where I did all the moves, but had no chance to link them together due to my lack of maximum endurance.
Third of all, I sent my first 8A+ boulder, Steinbukken in Rogaland, last weekend!!!!! A boulder that fits my style perfectly – five hard moves with a crimpy 7B+ topout. I expected to fall at least once after the hard part, but it didn’t happen. With only one work session I warmed up on the moves the following day and sent it in a few tries. Very fascinating to see how the moves turned from being barely possible to easy in such a short time. Focus, attitude and daily shape is something you cannot under estimate.
The past three months I have been experimenting with training. Some time around new years my body let go of the sickness and my energy slowly returned together with my motivation, ambitions and dedication.
When I got home from Spain I gave my body a few weeks of easy climbing before I started experimenting with training in terms of what kind of sessions I could handle and how many days a week I could train. Step by step I built my way up to handle around 15 hours of training a week with different kind of sessions with focus on general fitness and maintaining the power I had built up. I was pretty strong on single moves, but of course my fitness and endurance was at its all time low. Especially maximum endurance. And in order to improve these three aspects I had to train a lot. I had to put in the hours and train even if my body didn’t wanted to. The difference now to six months ago is that the feeling of being tired is different. Tired from training is something totally different than being exhausted, like I have been this past year.
At the moment I train like I used to back when I was 15 – a lot of bouldering/power and a lot of routes. This builds up my general fitness and my body to handle more training and gives me a better base to build maximum power and endurance over time. What is very surprising is that my finger strenght has improved way faster than what me and my coach anticipated. I went from doing maximum dead hangs with one set of 27 kilos to five sets of 40 kilos in just two months, and this without any specific finger training.
The progress was to be expected. I knew that I would benefit from the hours, but for it to give as good results as it actually did was a surprise. A very nice one after a tough year.
With Rocklands right around the corner the plan is to train harder to get a little stronger and to continue to train more so I get a little peak while I’m there. My wish list of boulders is long and I want to do as many of them as possible. I have never been to Africa before, and I am just as psyched about seeing another continent and a different culture as I am about the climbing it self. But with the huge progress I’ve had this past period I am very curious to explore my limits and to see what I’m capable of.
And with the progess I’ve had in just putting in the hours I can barely wait to see how my body responds to when I start training the specific elements with high quality again!
As for comps this year I have decided to have a bigger view at things. I’m still young, so it’s way more important to take my time to build up my body again, and to avoid the feeling of rush I have decided to not prioritize competitions this year. It was simply not enough time to build up the base and to train specific for competitions without the risk of getting injured and it feels like the right thing to do. I still want to compete at the world championship in September and maybe one world cup some time during the summer, but one thing is for sure – it is way better for me to focus on training and take my time with it rather than rush through the spring and spend the whole summer training between a busy competition scheduel and compete without the proper preperation. Besides, exploring more on rock is something I’m also very motivated to do, so this combined with training seems like the perfect year to me.
Rocklands in three weeks!