9th at WC Arco

On August 31, 2017 by admin

Arco was an amazing competition, both performance wise and the comp it self. My first and only time in Arco was at the World Championship back in 2011 which I have great memories from. That comp I was one spot away from semis, and this year I was one spot away from finals.

After topping my first qualifier I felt great. I topped it quite easily and enjoyed the route a lot and after a few hours of rest it was time to climb the harder one. Also on this I felt good, but I also felt tired. Climbing in 35 degrees is defnitely something I’m not used to and I got pumped pretty fast. I was actually close to falling several times on my way up, but I put up a good fight and made it to the last hard sequense and fell exhausted. Maybe it would be better for me to climb this route as my first, but I’m happy with my fight, even though it started a bit early. Qualified for semis in 11th place!

Sytse van Slooten

Semis had a style that suited me a lot better – physical, technical and pretty big moves. On the result list it looks like a disaster from the routesetter, and I guess if you only look at results it is, but I enjoyed the route a lot. To me this was the best semi-final this year beucase it was interesseting from the very beginning and hard. But 15 girls falling in the same two moves is not good to seperate and get the best 8 in finals. I was one spot out due to count back. Even though I made a movement out of the established 28, I didn’t get a plus because I went for the intermediate and not the next hold. And if you compare my move to the original +, mine isn’t one, but the judges could have changed the score by adding the intermediate and given me a plus and not a solid 28 like I ended up with and I would have made finals. Tiny margains this weekend, but I’m very happy with my climbing thoughout the competition!

Now it’s one month until the next competition and I have week for rock-climbing. Norwegian granite is calling!

Sytse van Slooten

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