Rock and competition climber

2014 – what a year

… And I wish I could say that in a positive way. But no. This year has been a tough one with a lot of challenges regarding injuries and sicknesses. I’ve been forced to change and adapt my training from day to day and I could never really plan anything.

I didn’t know until two weeks before the season start if I could compete or not. I was always planning to go, but some comps I had to pull out last minute like the bouldering comps I was excited to compete at.

Photo by Martin Argus
Photo by Martin Argus

A fast summery of the year; third week into my training period, I had just started to train properly after my holiday, my best friend Michaela comes to visit me for a month to train and I sprain my ankle the first day together. Thinking it was sprained I started climbing again once I could walk on it. Not good. Things got worse and I got an infection (not the dangerous kind). Stubborn as I was I didn’t rest, I just kept on adjusting and pushing. I got rid of the infection, but still I had trouble with the ankle.

My first year of no school that I wanted to spend on training and rock climbing turned out to be a year filled with adjusting and not knowing. Not knowing if I were able to climb the next day, not knowing whether or not I could compete in the next comp, and not knowing whether or not if I could even compete in the world cup this year.

After three months things have gotten a little better with my ankle, but not much. It was still swollen, still painful, and still didn’t work while climbing. I couldn’t stand for too long, I could walk too much and I couldn’t climb too much. And I didn’t know why. After an MRI it turned out that my ankle was broken, not sprained, but luckily it had healed well. Some loose pieces of bone seemed to be the answer to all the pain. And this takes time to get rid of…..

Doc told me it would take about six weeks to heal (if sprained). Now it’s been 50 weeks, and it’s finally come to a stage where it doesn’t hurt and I don’t feel like it’s limiting my climbing anymore.

Half way through the season I decided to cut it because the ankle was a bigger challenge than I thought it would be. Not only during the comps, but also prior and between. I realized that the work I did in the spring wasn’t good enough because it didn’t bring me to the level I wanted and was aiming for. So in stead of pushing through the whole season not happy about my training, I went rock climbing for some weeks, and when I got back I would train with the goal to heal up my ankle and get better and stronger.

I went rock climbing at Kalymnos and in Turkey, and both places I got sick; allergy and food poisoning. When I got home, I was still sick not knowing why. I thought it was the food poisoning that emptied me completely and that it would take some time to get the energy back. But not weeks… I got really sick and I thought it was the flu, but it turned out to be mononucleosis. Six weeks on the couch followed.

Now, I am back on the wall climbing easy trying to keep my heart beat beneath 120 and this is hard! I am really happy to be back on the wall moving on a vertical face again. Climbing is so much fun, and though I thought didn’t miss it while I was sick, I realize now that I have missed it a lot. Also before I got sick. Climbing with limitations, like my ankle, was not fun either. Of course I got to climb and have fun, but I couldn’t climb like I wanted to and what felt natural, so every time I climbed I felt like something was taken away from me. A little piece of joy.

I still climb with limitations because there is only so much I can do. I still have the mono virus in my body, but I’m not sick anymore. If that makes sense.. I have to take it really easy in the beginning with a slow progress in the amount of activity, but I hope to be able to start training again some time in January.

On Friday I fly to Spain not knowing what to expect of my self. I guess it’s more likely that I’ll be doing some rehab climbing rather than pushing on hard routes. What ever it will be, I’m excited to climb on rock again!

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