Name: Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
Date of birth: June 1994
Height: 163 cm
Place of birth: Oslo, Norway
Local climbing team: Kolsås
Sponsors: Bergans of Norway, Five Ten, Petzl and ApexKlinikken
Shoe: Five Ten Team
Climbing area: Ceuse, France and Red River Gorge, USA
Training centre: Innsbruck, Austria
Competition: World Cup in Chamonix, France
I started climbing at the age of 12 and after only one year of climbing I was rewarded as the best youth climber of Norway with the national champion title. Shortly after I started competing internationally against youth climbers from all over the world. After two seasons I climbed the final step and fought against the best in the world ending my youth career with a podium at both the world and the european championship, gold medals from individual european youth cup events and ranked as number one junior in the world in 2012. The year of 2013 was the year I switched my focus from youth to senior and I ended my last year as a junior being among the best and a 14th place at the highest competition level. I was ready to start off my senior career.
A few days into my training winter I broke my ankle and my training had to be adjusted. A tough season followed and ended with me cutting it short in order to heal up my painful ankle. Two weeks later I was randomly diagnosed with mononucleosis – three months of sleeping followed, and one year of restricted training. When I was sick I was able to climb as long as I didn’t get too tired, and this allowed me to train 2-5 hours a week. Even though it’s not much, it made me a lot stronger as most of my training consisted of hard single moves.
Those two years of being injured and sick thought me a lot about my self, my motivation and how to deal with difficulties. Most of all it made me realize what I want with my life and where I want to go.
Today I am back to being a full time climber with training in focus, and I am more psyched than ever to prepare for the world cup season. I have a lot of work to do after “missing” out on two years of training, but after accomplishing my only competition goal of 2016 by making semis at the world championship with only a few weeks of preparation due to a finger injury, I am curious to see what a few years of specific training will do to my climbing.
Besides from competition climbing I also love spending my time outdoors. I have gone from a playful state of mind when it comes to rock climbing to a focus on performing. I try to mix the three things I like the most about climbing – training, competing and rock climbing – as good as I can, and this allows me to see the world and explore my limits in different arenas.
Ranked as number 1 junior in the world 2012
Overall winner European Youth Cup 2012
Three individual gold medals from the European Youth Cup
National Champion x3
Nordic Champion x3
3rd place World Youth Championship 2011
3rd place European Youth Championship 2013
12th place World Championship combined 2016
14th place World Cup 2013
20th place World Cup 2015
21st place World Championship 2016
8b+ redpoint sport climbing
8a+ onsight sport climbing