On August 31, 2017 by admin


This summer I had the chance to visit my all time favorite place. It’s been five years since my last visit and this was my fourth trip down. I have wanted to go back ever since my last trip five years ago, but a broken ankle and mononucleosis kept me away due to the long approach.

Going rock-climbing between comps is always hard for me, but I managed to combine rock and plastic between the two world cups in Chamonix and Briancon and decided to stay another 10 days in Ceuse because I wasn’t able to climb as much as I wanted.

Originally I was psyched to try harder routes like Dures Limits, but being so mentally tired after Chamonix I just wanted to enjoy the rock and the nature, so I ended up climbing easier stuff and challenge my self on different styles. I sent four 8a+, all three stars and beautiful and all with different style; Femme Blanche, l’ami Caouette, Encore and Face du Rat. Last one I flashed, Femme Blanche I needed a few tries to stick the big move before the slab and the two others I sent 2nd try. Femme Blanche was really scary the first time up, but I’m very happy I pulled my self through it even though all I wanted to do was to go back down. Figuring out the slab sequence high above the bolt was really scary for me!

View from Face du Rat

Best of all with this trip was to relax, enjoy good food with great people and get psyched for the next training period which started once I got home. Ceuse always gets me in good shape! Thanks for a great trip Rannveig, Roger and Thilo <3

Thilo sends Chirurgien du crepuscule

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