Disappointments of Briancon

On August 3, 2017 by admin

Sytse van Slooten

This comp has never been my favorite of the circuit. The wall is pretty old as well as the holds, but the city and the scenery is among the best. I haven’t been to Briancon in a few years, and it tured out the wall was modified since my last visit, and they had new holds! A change I liked a lot.

I started the comp by topping the first route, this was also my first proper top in a world cup and I was really happy. Climbing felt really good, I was confident and felt strong. I was one of 15 girls to top this route. The next one I would say suited me better as it was more physical, it even had a no-hands-rest in the middle. Unfortunately I didn’t make it that far as I slipped off in the lower part of the route. Feeling solid and confident, but a slippery foothold made me loose my feet. But as I topped the first one it was not a problem for making it to the next round a few hours later.

Sytse van Slooten

Semis was a strange route. None of us girls understood how to do a certain sequence and I thought things will make sense once I get there. Another unfortunate event occured as I got stuck in a draw lower down and caused my fall early in the route. I must admit that I didn’t have a good flow up to there, but I still fell on a sequence I shouldn’t have. I was in a compression move with my left hand on a sidepull, my right foot as a heel hook and had to move my right hand fast into the next sidepull. When I got stuck in the draw that was it and I fell and lost my chance to fight for another final. I would love to see how I would solve the tricky and hard sequence no one understood a thing of. The semi final was a hard one and I really wish I made it further so I could give it a good fight.

Sheila Farrell McCarron

Things like this happen. Mistakes you can’t control. And usually I’m okay with it. I have a pretty aggressive style, which makes it easier to do mistakes like these two, at least the foot slip, but two mistakes in the same comp is not acceptable. I am really dissapointed, but at the same time I had a really good go on my first route and my result had nothing to do with my shape. I ended 24th in the end.

Even though I’m dissapointed, there are still a lot to learn from this comp which I will bring into my preparation for Arco in a few weeks and the next ones to follow throughout the fall. This year will be my first time doing all the world cups!

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