Rock and competition climber

Disqualified at the WC Briancon

This competition did not go as planned. Not at all. Nevertheless, I’m still left with a good feeling… 🙂

Qualifiers were in the morning and psyche was high. As always. I felt ready for the first route, which was my 2nd qualifying route. As the holds seemed quite good, I decided to climb fast. I got past the beginning and the roof, and suddenly I got stopped by a super awkward move where I got totally surprised. Everything felt so good and so easy, and my head wasn’t prepared for this weird static move. I started hesitating and wonder where to put my feet and went a bit back and fourth before I fell. At first I was very upset because I fell waaaay too early, but when I thought of the good feeling I had while climbing I figured I couldn’t be too disappointed. Besides, I had another route to focus on.

My second route, which was the 1st qualifying route, felt harder than the other, but maybe it was because I didn’t reach the harder part on it. Anyway, once again I climbed well and with a good feeling. I fell on the first real hard move, but it was still accepted as I was a bit tired. I know I could have done a few more moves, but it was still good. When I got down the judges claimed I stepped on a bolt in the roof, and that they would have to check it on the video. As the results got out I was one of the last on the list, and I got disqualified. The judges had viewed my video over and over again to try to decided whether or not I stepped on it, and they made their final decision saying I used it.

Even if my first route was bad, I would probably have made semi-final if I got judged right. I know, and so proofs the video of my climb (filmed from another angle than the official one), that I didn’t use the bolt and that I would have been in the semi-final. That is, of course, frustrating, but at least I know that my level is good enough for semi in the World Cup. This was the first WC of the year, and there are a lot more to come and look forward to. Next up is the European Youth Championship in Imst next weekend 🙂

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