Get away week in Lofoten
One of the most beautiful places I’ve been. I knew it was going to be a hectic fall with seven comps including a two week trip to China, weekend trips to Edinburgh, Kranj, Helsinki and a bit of travelling in Norway as well, and a get a way week was the perfect prep for what was to come.
We had a car in Lofoten because Thilo left it in the summer so he could join Ceuse in August, and at some point we had to go get it. My main goal was to relax and climb as much as possible. This attitude made it hard to send, but we had an amazing week with perfect weather. Which is not a guarantee in Norway. Thilo made some solid and amazing first ascents which was cool to witness and I know that we will be back. Fresh air, mountains, sea, exploring, fishing, climbing and good food. It was a wonderful week!
On our first day Thilo said, Tina you should to the FA of this boulder, it shouldn’t be so hard.
It had perfect crimp rails into two perfect slopers into a very technical mantle. I loved it. It was such a good problem, but it was too technical for me. I couldn’t figure out the mantle and as Thilo got more and more inpatient he grabbed his own shoes and went for the flash and failed big time. It ended up taking him about 20 minutes before the boulder got it’s first ascent and it is one of the best! He called it Mini Royal because of the big and proud project next to it. In the guide book it’s listed as an 8b project, but as Thilo could only do one move and only two times, we figured it must be harder. I said the boulder should be called Prosjekt Royal which makes Mini Royal the perfect name for the newest FA in the area.
On the way back home we also stopped in Vingsand and Trondheim for more bouldering and training, and Trondheim has the best training wall in the country! We witnessed Martin send his project Shantaram which was cool. I get really inspired by people who succeed after a lot of hard work and dedication. The boulder is on an island and requires quite some logistics as you need a boat, tons of pads and hearing about his solo missions makes this send even more impressive. I got really psyched to see him top out this 20+ move boulder on his very last try of the day. A great week with great people and perfect weather. Batteries charged and a body that is ready to fight