Rock and competition climber

My second WC final!

My second WC final!

In Edinburgh I made my second world cup final! Which was a huge relief after missing the final in Arco due to a judge decision. It should be said that the semi final was a strange route and it felt a bit random. I didn’t climb my best in qualifiers and missed a top I definitely should have clipped the chains on. But qualifiers are all about making it to the next round and in 13th position I was in with a good margin.

Semis was hard. So incredibly hard. And it was hard for everyone. Half of the girls fell on the same move at the third or fourth draw. I passed this move after about 1 minute standing there clueless about what to do. I also passed the next hard move which made another five or six girls fall, and I made finals in 6th position. Just like in Chamonix.

Bilde 25.09.2017, 00.16.20.jpg
Sytse van Slooten photo

Our final was a route with a lot of volumes. The first half was all about hanging on volumes with no holds and the second half was bigger moves on what looked like descent holds going into a new volume sequence. I felt psyched and strong going out in finals. I had a good warm up and it was the only route I felt good before climbing throughout the whole weekend. Unfortunately I fell early in the final. I underestimated a move that looked okay, and when I realised that it was a big move I went really big and as my right hand slipped off the swing was too big for me to handle on one arm. It was a mistake and it’s really frustrating when you do a mistake early in the route. But at the same time I was really happy and proud to make another final. And I even made it with a body that was not in shape. I hadn’t felt good the week prior to Edinburgh and I didn’t really understand why. And then in qualifiers I didn’t feel good at all. But when I woke up with a really nasty cold the day of semis it all made sense.

Bilde 25.09.2017, 00.16.16.jpg
The move I fell on 🙁 Photo by Sytse van Slooten

Today I’m on my way to China for the next two world cups, and the fact that I only had two sessions between Edinburgh and the next world cup makes me a bit more nervous than usual. I was in bed all week, but my body is finally responding and starting to feel normal again. It will be my first time in China and I’m very excited to see what this interesting country is all about 😀

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *