Rock and competition climber

Road trippin

Photo: Charles Loury (
Photo: Charles Loury (

I had big plans for this spring because it was my first training period with no school and no worries. But as many plans you make, this one didn’t go as planned.

As I’ve written earlier I sprained my ankle in the beginning of the year. But my sprained ankle turned out to be broken, which doesn’t really change anything now, other than the rehab time. It has recovered well, but it’s not 100% and it will take up to a year until it’s back to normal.

At the moment the ankle is kind of living it’s own life. Some days are really good and it’s not a problem at all, and then the next day I can’t even climb. It’s been a struggle becuase I’ve been forced to take every day as it comes, rest more than I’m used to, and not being able to plan my sessions and week is also hard. I’ve been forced to change my program over and over again, and to be honest it’s been more frustrating than fun. But I made it through six challenging months and feeling ready for the season to kick off in a week.

My plans for the summer are comps and training. I’m heading on a road trip with my best friend Michaela from the US team starting in Munich, then Zurich, Chamonix and Briancon. After the first leg, I’m heading home to reset my head before I leave for the third world cup in Imst and a training camp in Innsbruck.

I’ve decided to participate in all the world cups this year (not the first in China two weeks ago), as well as the World Championship in both lead and bouldering. That’s the plan for the year, but as I’ve learned (over and over again) this spring, I may have to change it along the way.

An injury is never ideal, and it never really fits into a program, but it’s a huge part of being an athlete. And though I’m not finished with this one, I’m sure others will come along and if you want to succed, you need to find a way to deal with them.

These are the comps I will do this year:

World Cup Chamonix, France
World Cup Briancon, France

World Cup Imst, Austria
VM buldring i Munich, Germany

World Championship lead Gijon, Spain
National Championship bouldering, Bergen

World Cup Mokpo, South-Korea
World Cup China
World Cup Inzai, Japan

Nordic Championship lead, Sogndal
World Cup Kranj, Slovenia
National Championship lead, Ålesund

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