Rock and competition climber

Switzerland and dealing with injury

Like I told you guys on Twitter and Instagram (for those who follow me ;)) I was in Switzerland the last two weeks. I returned home Monday evening, and the last week was spent….. in the gym. My two weeks in Swiss was a blast! I spent the first week in Bern training with my good friends Amanda and Manuela who I haven’t seen in a long time. It was nice to catch up with them and train in new facilities and on new and hard routes. The last week I was bouldering in Ticino with some friends from Oslo, and even though I couldn’t climb as much as I wanted, I still had a lot of fun and a great time. I haven’t bouldered much outside, and it was surprisingly fun. But because of my painful and weak ankle I couldn’t fall on it, which made it hard and frustrating to climb.

It’s 7, almost 8 weeks since I sprained my ankle and it doesn’t heal like it should be. The first three weeks were filled with progression from day to day, but there is no progression from week 4 to 8. It’s actually gotten worse the last two weeks. It’s still swollen, still not much movement and still painful. So, after doing my own thing, pushing it way too hard for 4 weeks, I decided to listen to my doctor. Yesterday we took some pictures and it looks like there is a small infection in the bone, which is the reason of why it’s so painful. The good thing about it, compared to a torn ligament which was what we feared, is that once the pain and swelling goes down I can start to push it more again.

Being injured is frustrating, and I think everyone who has been injured agrees with me. No matter what kind of injury it is, you always have to hold back. My ankle is not one of those serious ones, but it’s still keeping me from training like I should and would have. I was supposed to start endurance training three weeks ago, but that period got pushed a week, then another week, and another. My goal is to be able to start it on Monday, but it doesn’t look too good. Regarding a training program it’s important to be able to change it if something goes wrong, like an injury. There is no perfect program, but when you decide on something, it’s hard to change it. But with injuries, you don’t really have a choice. It’s all about being flexible and be able to adapt to the circumstances. And that is what I’m working on right now.

I’ve been injured for about 8 weeks now and I’ve been able to train throughout the whole period, but not like I was supposed to. A painful ankle is something almost all climbers can relate to, and for me, it’s hard to realize that they are all different. Even though a friend can climb with and fall on his painful ankle, does not mean I can. And that has been a big problem for me. My ankle is getting worse because I pushed it too far a couple of times too many. One of my strengths as an athlete is to push through when something hurts. It’s important to listen to the body, and pain in usually the body letting you know something is wrong, but at the same time, there is a difference between pain and pain. You have the pain you feel when you start to get tired, like you’re searching for a reason to stop training, and you have the serious pain, which you should listen to. The line between the two can sometimes be blurry, and that has probably been my biggest issue these last weeks. I thought my pain was the unserious one, but it turns out that it was the kind of pain you should listen to… I guess we can all learn from our mistakes, and I realize now that being injured is not one of my strengths like I thought it was. Time to get better at it!!!!

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