The World Championship in Paris

On September 17, 2012 by admin

Paris was great! This was my first time in this beautiful city, and even though we didn’t have too much time (and energy) to do a lot of sightseeing, we got to see the Eifel Tower and some other nice buildings as well. Not to mention all the nice and good food. But I was there to compete and to represent my country in this year’s World Championship. I competed in all three disciplines; lead, boulder and speed. Speed was just to get the overall-result, which I didn’t get because we had to do the speed qualification twice, due to technical problems.

On Wednesday I had my lead qualification with two routes. Because of many participants, the women lead starting list was divided into two groups. Top 13 in both groups made semi-final. I knew I could make it, but I had to complete two good routes. My first route was very good, and not too hard. I am satisfied with my own performance, even though I felt a bit shaky in the beginning. I got to climb a lot of moves and I felt I gave everything I had. The second route looked easier, but turned out to be more powerful and harder than expected. My climbing was good in the beginning, but then about half way up, I made a mistake which caused me my semi-final spot. I placed 9th in the 2nd qualifier (first route) and 16th in the 1st qualifier (second route), which gave me a 14th place in total, and just outside semi-final. AGAIN. I had the exact same result from last year’s World Championship in Arco..

    
Boulder and lead qualification. photo: Stian Christophersen

The boulder qualification was on Thursday, and this competition wasn’t so important to me, considering the fact that I’m a lead climber. But I was very excited to compete in this discipline, because I don’t have so much experience with boulder comps. Arco last year was a lot of fun, and this year was maybe even more fun. The boulders were really good, and had all the different styles; from super technical slab to dynos and powerful moves on slopers andcrimps. My expectations were low, and my goal was to have a lot of fun. Which I did! After my accident last year, boulder comps has been A LOT of up and down. Sometimes they are pure fun, but other times they are scary and frustrating. This comp was maybe one of the best ones I’ve been to. My result wasn’t so good, but the experience was amazing. I finished two problems, and I should/could have done one or two more. You needed three tops in a few tries to make semi, and it felt possible. I hope I will get an opportunity to try a boulder world cup next year as well.

Our five days in Paris was amazing, and the finals were a BIG show and a true inspiration. Over 16 000 spectators, spectacular routes and boulders, great speakers and an amazing atmosphere made this championship a perfect bidding for the Olympics in 2020. As everyone know, climbing is shortlisted for the Olympics, and this world championship is the main comp in the application/bidding for the IOC. This also made the expectations high in front of the comp, and I don’t think I can say anything else than I am impressed by the conduct of the whole competition.

Now I’m back at school for three days, and then I’m off to Belgium for the next world cup. Some weeks ago I was unsure to compete in Paris or not, and now I am very happy that I did. The competition was the best I’ve been to, and I had a great time. I’m psyched on getting my revenge in Puurs and of course to get more world cup experience 🙂

After Puurs I will be home for a few days, and then I’m going to Sweden for the Nordic Championship in lead, and the day after I’m off to RODELLAR for two weeks!!!!

La vie est belle <3 <3 <3

PS, more pictures are coming sooon and a post about being injuried. It’s exactly one year since my accident today, and I will try to write a short post about how it was to be injuried, what kind of challenges I’ve been through and why it made me a better climber. Hopefully it will help other injuried climbers out there. So stay tuned!

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