Rock and competition climber

Three weeks of limestone

Including Petzl Roctrip and 8a+ onsight

I decided some time ago to cut the season short after the world championship in Spain, so that’s what I did. In stead of a total break I went to Kalymnos and Turkey for rock climbing and holiday.

Kalymnos was amazing! Not the best climbing wise because I struggled with an allergy the first part of the trip. A change of hotel seemed to be the soloution, and I felt better and started climbing more and better. The sad thing is that this allergy made me waste half of our climbing days, so the last days I tried a lot of hard routes to see if there was something I wanted to project. But as days passed I got tired of not sending routes, so I decided to do more onsights. An 8a+ to be more spesific.

Even though I didn’t send the one I had in mind due to clipping the wrong anchor, I still managed to onsight my first 8a+. With this onsight I became the first norwegian female to have done this, and though it’s not a world class performance it’s still something I’m proud to have achieved. Mainly because I was so determined to do it exactly this day. I love the pressure I put on my self to perform. I don’t have much experience with pressure and rock climbing as I have all my focus on comps, but this was certainly something cool to experience!

As I said I kind of wasted half of our climbing days being sick and then some days trying different routes, even though I don’t look at it as waste because I love trying hard routes, even when I don’t send. This resulted in just a few routes ticket, but still a lot of meters and moves climbed. Kalymnos was the perfect place for a holiday and I was sad to leave.

Photo by Henning Wang/Madskillz Media
Kalymnos <3 Photo by Henning Wang/Madskillz Media

Back home in Oslo my ankle got worse from all the walking and climbing at Kalymnos, and it didn’t work in the gym. Frustrated and annoyed I just remembered that I had an offer to go to Turkey for the Petzl Roctrip, so I booked my flight and met up with the other Petzl athletes in Geyik Bayiri. I couldn’t climb as much as I wanted to because of the ankle, but I tried and I had a good time. After a couple of days we went to Olympos for the next stop of the roadtrip and the atmosphere screemed holiday, perfect for me as I couldn’t climb that much. Until the food poisoning came and the trip was more or less over. A couple of days suffering in bed or at a couch followed before our journey back home.

I’ve now had three weeks of holiday with rock climbing, sun and swimming, and it was certainly good to have some time to reset my head and reflect on the past year. But now I’m back home and ready to restart my training! After a week of no climbing it’s a bit hard to be back in the gym, but I know that it won’t take too much time, and I recently got the GO for a more agressive rehab of my ankle. I have a lot of work ahead of me to regain the trust, but I’ve done it before (my elbow) so I know I can do it again. But I also know that it takes time.

Even though I decided to cut the season short I will compete in the two remaining competitions this year, both in november; the last world cup and the Norwegian championship.

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