Rock and competition climber

Working my way back from mono

Last thing I wrote here was that I was on my way to Spain for some rock climbing. That trip ended with one route one day, and that was that. Out of 14 days I could only climb the first day, and from that day things went down. It was way too early for me to go on a trip, but I was too stubborn to admit it so I just had to try. After Spain I had to rest for another month before I could start training. Looking back at it now I have no idea how I could be that psyched, because the training I did, can not be considered training….

Day 1: walk 20 minutes with below 120 in heart beat
Day 2: rest (means completely rest and no activity)
Day 3: walk 20 minutes with below 120 in heart beat
Day 4: rest
Day 5: Walk 30 minutes with below 120 in heart beat

In January I started my training regime with walking every second day, and after a couple of days I started with dead hangs. The point of this was to prepare my fingers so they wouldn’t feel completely out of it when I could start climbing again. I did this for a couple of weeks and then tested easy core training. That worked well, so I did this for some time and then I could finally start to climb. In the beginning it was only traversing on vertical walls, then steeper walls, worse holds, more minutes etc. I could test new methods in my training for some days, and if things worked I could continue and then add some more, if it didn’t work I had to rest. And that is what my days have been like the last two months – try, evaluate, continue or rest. Right now I am both bouldering and sport climbing, but I have to keep the hours down and always think of the total amount things I do during a day, not only how I train.

I’ve reached a point where I no longer enjoy just climbing. I want to train, I want to be strong, I want to do hard boulders, I want to climb many routes, I want to rock climb and go on trips. There are so many things I want to do, and right now it feels like my life is continuing without me. I know that I will be back in my normal training regime and that my possibilities for traveling will still be there, but not being able to do what you want really makes you sure about what you want to do.


I was recently on a bouldering trip to Vingsand in Norway, but my body was still not ready for rock climbing. Being outside for a whole day takes all
my energy and I only felt good the first and second day. This trip was kind of a test to see how my body reacts on being outside, climb, etc, and it might have been a bit too early. But I do feel that things are slowly getting better. The biggest difference between now and a couple of weeks ago is that I actually want to do something on my rest days. Until now all I’ve done on my rest days are sleep, do nothing and barely stepped a foot outside. I train 4 to 8 hours a week at the moment. Compared to my normal 15-20 hours at this time of the year, I’d say I’m pretty far from my normal amount of sessions and hours. This is the best I can do at the moment so why complain?

But, I do have to stay realistic… Considering all of this I have to decide what to do this summer. It’s April and I’m still not training properly. My season starts in July and I wont be able to train as much as I want and need for at least another month. This means that I have less than 2 months to prepare for this year’s comps. I know that I will get back i an OK shape for the summer, but is that good enough? Will I be able to enjoy it when I know that the job I did prior to the season wasn’t good enough? Even if I couldn’t have done it better? I don’t know. But I do know that I don’t have enough time to take the next step and be better and stronger than I was before I got sick. There is just not enough time. On the other hand Norway is hosting their first world cup event, and that is something to be apart of! And of course all the experience I will gain from competing in as many comps as I can. And the fact that I love competitions.

So the question is; to compete or not to compete?

Photo by Francesco Schiassi
Photo by Francesco Schiassi

I don’t know yet. But I do know that it is not fun to compete when you feel that you haven’t done the job properly. Last year I did absolutely everything I could to be in my best shape for the comps, but the fact is that it just wasn’t good enough. With my painful ankle I wasn’t able to get the high quality and the hours on the wall that I needed. And I did not have fun, because I knew that the job I did was far from good enough. But I also knew that I couldn’t have done it much differently either. I did the best I could and I ended up not having fun. So will I do it again?

Yes I will, but not to be in shape for the summer. I will work to get better every single day. I will spend the year focusing on getting better. Not for the comps, not for the summer, but in general. I will do my best this year so the next years can be better. I will compete, but probably not all of them. I will climb outside and travel, and train the best possible way I can.

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