I don’t even know where to start. I had such a blast climbing my first final and being a part of the big show of the world cup in Chamonix. Climbing finals in Chamonix has been a dream ever since I saw my first final […]
Norwegian champion, Nordic champion, vice champion in both championships for boulder and a terrible world cup finish. These words sums up my last intense period of this long season. I’m very happy I took home gold in the two championships that mattered most, but the […]
Twelve days in a country I had never been and always wanted to go. Wujiang, Shanghai and Xiamen were the cities we visited. The team was me and my coach Nicki and with us was Sweden’s Hannes and Netta from the Israeli team.
Wujiang was the first comp. I had just recovered from a two week long cold and did not know what to expect. Only two sessions in two weeks is not what I call the perfect preperation. It was a brutal start with our first qualifiers, but the second was better and I was ready to fight and climb my best in semis. Sadly I managed to slip off with my foot early in the route and got one of my worst results this season. But at least I felt good and I was back in the game.
Five days in Shanghai followed with training, sightseeing and being tourists. I love to explore and spent a lot of time walking the streets of this big and fascinating city. We ate good chinese food and found our favorite – the hot pot. But after five days of big city life it was nice to pack up our stuff and get into comp mode again.
Xiamen was a new city, but we never had the time to explore it. The weekend was all about the comp and bad weather and delays made our free time very limited. I caught a new cold a few days before the comp and with a hectic schedule I decided to save my energy for semis that followed only a few hours after qualifiers. Because of bad weather the semis was pushed to noon the next day.
After not feeling so good during qualification it was nice to get a good warm up and put up a proper fight in semis. I was happy with my climb on this incredibly hard route and being in a big lead it was frustrating to get the round cancelled. I am very happy that I was able to climb and manage to turn bad into good, but I would love to see the rest of the girls on the semi final.
I wrote some thoughts about how we athletes were treated this weekend on my Instagram, you can read it here
I am not going to say much more about it other than I was very disappointed to travel all the way to China and get the chance to fight for finals taken away. I appreciate all the feed back I got on my IG post, which has all been positive. Criticism is difficult and does not come easy for me, but in order to make things change for the better it has to be done.
Now I’m home and I love being back in training mode. It’s been a long season and every time there was time from comps to train I chose to go on a rock climbing trip, but this month I’m staying home to put 100% into my preperation one last time this year. I have five comps coming up in November and December and the world cup is the most important one. I also have Nordic championship in lead and boulder and the Norwegian championship in lead and boulder.
Arco was an amazing competition, both performance wise and the comp it self. My first and only time in Arco was at the World Championship back in 2011 which I have great memories from. That comp I was one spot away from semis, and this year I was one spot away from finals.
After topping my first qualifier I felt great. I topped it quite easily and enjoyed the route a lot and after a few hours of rest it was time to climb the harder one. Also on this I felt good, but I also felt tired. Climbing in 35 degrees is defnitely something I’m not used to and I got pumped pretty fast. I was actually close to falling several times on my way up, but I put up a good fight and made it to the last hard sequense and fell exhausted. Maybe it would be better for me to climb this route as my first, but I’m happy with my fight, even though it started a bit early. Qualified for semis in 11th place!
Semis had a style that suited me a lot better – physical, technical and pretty big moves. On the result list it looks like a disaster from the routesetter, and I guess if you only look at results it is, but I enjoyed the route a lot. To me this was the best semi-final this year beucase it was interesseting from the very beginning and hard. But 15 girls falling in the same two moves is not good to seperate and get the best 8 in finals. I was one spot out due to count back. Even though I made a movement out of the established 28, I didn’t get a plus because I went for the intermediate and not the next hold. And if you compare my move to the original +, mine isn’t one, but the judges could have changed the score by adding the intermediate and given me a plus and not a solid 28 like I ended up with and I would have made finals. Tiny margains this weekend, but I’m very happy with my climbing thoughout the competition!
Now it’s one month until the next competition and I have week for rock-climbing. Norwegian granite is calling!
I don’t even know where to start. I had such a blast climbing my first final and being a part of the big show of the world cup in Chamonix. Climbing finals in Chamonix has been a dream ever since I saw my first final there 9 years ago. It’s every competition climbers dream. The world cup in Chamonix is the biggest, most spectacular and usually the event with the most starters. The only comp to beat this one is the world championship.
This competition was my third of the season and the first two didn’t go as well as I had hoped. Nerves made the first one – the european championship – a hard one. I had no flow in my climbing and made a lot of mistakes. One cruical mistake in each route made me 22nd in the end. A result I was quite unhappy about. Number two, the first world cup, was even worse. Climbing was a lot better, it felt good to climb and I enjoyed the routes, but again, a mistake in the first qualifer left me unhappy and even out of semis as my second climb wasn’t my best either.
Two comps, five routes I was unhappy about and two results I didn’t feel represented my level. I started to get stressed I would end up in this bad circle and that it would continue. I’ve taken a big step in my climbing this past year and I had some thoughts about what level I should be at in the world cup. So far, I was pretty far from what I thought.
Chamonix on the other hand went a lot better than I had ever imagined in the months leading up to this season. I made semis in 15th place with a top 10 result and advanced to finals in 6th! After my climb in semis I thought I would advance a few spots as the route was pretty physical and suited me well, but the thought of finals never occured until I was in 9th position. Only one more girl had to fall for me to make it to finals. And it happened. Several girls actually fell and I advanced to finals in 6th place. We were three girls who made it to our first world cup final and we all had a blast!
The route had holds I had never seen before, a jump, volumes, some pretty physical sequenses through the steep part, and as always in Chamonix – a crimpy finish. I didn’t have any expectations about where I should get, it was my first final after all, but I wanted to reach 2/3 of the wall and I wanted to fight.
Last thing I did before I stepped on the wall was to breath in the moment, and that’s about the last thing I remember.
After watching replays of my climb I obviously remember more. I had a good flow, I was determined, I was efficient and I had so much fun. 2/3 up the route I started to get a bit pumped, but not too bad, and out of the blue I find a knee bar. A knee bar so good I could rest for a minute and get fresh. It was in this rest I realized I was climbing a world cup final. My dream final in Chamonix! It was all very surreal. 1 minute and 30 seconds left on the clock I rushed out of the knee bar and continued my way up the route, which still felt pretty okay. Holds were good and moves weren’t too hard. I made it to the top part of the wall and came to the first move I felt I could actually fall on. I realized fast that this was a move that would split people and I went for the safe method – grabbing the hold with the wrong hand and moving towards the next one to get a +. This descision made me 4th instead of 5th, but looking back at it now I wish I went for the right method. It was a desperate move, you had to fall into a small crimp, but doing the right beta is always the way to go. I like my climbing the most when I take chances and risk falling, and that is the only negative thing from my last climb in Chamonix.
If 4th place is a result that represents my level is too early to say, most likely i’ts a little too good to be true for now. I know the top level girls are a step ahead, and I also know how small the margains of making finals are. It’s a lot of strong girls competing at the moment, and I’m pretty sure we’re gonna see a lot of different girls making their first final apperances this year.
I am really happy to have completed a competition where every route just went better and better, where I felt solid and strong, where I had a good flow and managed to fight. This is to date my best comp and it will stay in my heart for a very long time. Before this, my best competition experience in regards of feeling, flow and fight was six years ago. Psyched to have made a new personal best!
A big thank you and a hug goes out to everyone who sent messages, called, hugged me, congratulated me. I have no words of how much it means and I tried my best to reply to you all.
For Norwegian readers, this is a piece I wrote for Klatring: https://www.norsk-klatring.no/Impulser/Konkurranse/Tina-Hafsaas-nummer-fire-i-verden
Full replays of finals here, I start climbing at 1.55.00: https://youtu.be/h54_akkODQY